Ешь, молись, люби

Chapter 25

           ")ThenIstrollalongthebanksofthegreat,swampy,rural-lookingTiber,allthewaydowntotheTiberIsland,whichisoneofmyfavoritequietplacesinRome.Thisislandhasalwaysbeenassociatedwithhealing.ATempleofAesculapiuswasbuiltthereafteraplaguein291BC;intheMiddleAgesahospitalwasconstructedtherebyagroupofmonkscalledtheFatebene-fratelli(whichcangroovilybetranslatedas"TheDo-GoodBrothers");andthereisahospitalontheislandeventothisday.

           IcrossovertherivertoTrastevere-theneighborhoodthatclaimstobeinhabitedbythetruestRomans,theworkers,theguyswhohave,overthecenturies,builtallthemonumentsontheothersideoftheTiber.Ieatmylunchinaquiettrattoriahere,andIlingerovermyfoodandwineformanyhoursbecausenobodyinTrastevereisevergoingtostopyoufromlingeringoveryourmealifthat’swhatyouwouldliketodo.Iorderanassortmentofbruschette,somespaghetticacioepepe(thatsimpleRomanspecialtyofpastaservedwithcheeseandpepper)andthenasmallroastchicken,whichIendupsharingwiththestraydogwhohasbeenwatchingmeeatmylunchthewayonlyastraydogcan.

           ThenIwalkbackoverthebridge,throughtheoldJewishghetto,asorelytearfulplacethatsurvivedforcenturiesuntilitwasemptiedbytheNazis.Iheadbacknorth,pastthePiazzaNavonawithitsmammothfountainhonoringthefourgreatriversofPlanetEarth(proudly,ifnottotallyaccurately,includingthesluggishTiberinthatlist).ThenIgohavealookatthePantheon.

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