Ешь, молись, люби

Chapter 25

           OneLondontouringclubwasactuallycalled"TheSocietyofDilettanti"-imagineadvertisingthatyou’readilettante!Oh,thegloriousshamelessnessofit…

           IwalkovertothePiazzadelPopolo,withitsgrandarch,carvedbyBerniniinhonorofthehistoricvisitofQueenChristinaofSweden(whowasreallyoneofhistory’sneutronbombs.Here’showmySwedishfriendSofiedescribesthegreatqueen:"Shecouldride,shecouldhunt,shewasascholar,shebecameaCatholicanditwasahugescandal.Somesayshewasaman,butatleastshewasprobablyalesbian.Shedressedinpants,shewentonarchaeologicalexcavations,shecollectedartandsherefusedtoleaveanheir").NexttothearchisachurchwhereyoucanwalkinforfreeandseetwopaintingsbyCaravaggiodepictingthemartyrdomofSaintPeterandtheconversionofSaintPaul(soovercomebygracethathehasfallentothegroundinholyrapture;notevenhishorsecanbelieveit).ThoseCaravaggiopaintingsalwaysmakemefeelweepyandoverwhelmed,butIcheermyselfupbymovingtotheothersideofthechurchandenjoyingafrescowhichfeaturesthehappiest,goofiest,giggliestlittlebabyJesusinallofRome.

           Istartwalkingsouthagain.IpassthePalazzoBorghese,abuildingthathasknownmanyfamoustenants,includingPauline,Napoleon’sscandaloussister,whokeptuntoldnumbersofloversthere.Shealsolikedtousehermaidsasfootstools.(Onealwayshopesthatonehasreadthissentencewronginone’sCompanionGuidetoRome,but,no-itisaccurate.Paulinealsolikedtobecarriedtoherbath,wearetold,by"agiantNegro.

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