Chapter 75

           

           Sothisishowitcomestopassthat-theveryafternoonIhavearrivedinBali-I’msuddenlyonthebackofamotorbike,clutchingmynewfriendMariotheItalian-Indonesian,whoisspeedingmethroughthericeterracestowardKetutLiyer’shome.ForallthatI’vethoughtaboutthisreunionwiththemedicinemanoverthelasttwoyears,IactuallyhavenoideawhatI’mgoingtosaytohimwhenIarrive.Andofcoursewedon’thaveanappointment.Soweshowupunannounced.Irecognizethesignoutsidehisdoor,sameaslasttime,saying:"KetutLiyer-painter."It’satypical,traditionalBalinesefamilycompound.Ahighstonewallsurroundstheentireproperty,there’sacourtyardinthemiddleandatempleintheback.Severalgenerationsliveouttheirlivestogetherinthevariousinterconnectedsmallhomeswithinthesewalls.Weenterwithoutknocking(nodoor,anyway)totheriotousdismayofasometypicalBalinesewatchdogs(skinny,angry)andthereinthecourtyardisKetutLiyertheelderlymedicineman,wearinghissarongandhisgolfshirt,lookingpreciselythesameashedidtwoyearsagowhenIfirstmethim.MariosayssomethingtoKetut,andI’mnotexactlyfluentinBalinese,butitsoundslikeageneralintroduction,somethingalongthelinesof,"Here’sagirlfromAmerica-goforit."

           Ketutturnshismostlytoothlesssmileuponmewiththeforceofacompassionatefirehose,andthisissoreassuring:Ihadrememberedcorrectly,heisextraordinary.Hisfaceisacomprehensiveencyclopediaofkindness.Heshakesmyhandwithanexcitedandpowerfulgrip.

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