Ешь, молись, люби

Chapter 80

           (Thewordamok,asin"runningamok,"isaBalineseword,describingabattletechniqueofsuddenlygoinginsanelywildagainstone’senemiesinsuicidalandbloodyhand-to-handcombat;theEuropeanswerefranklyterrifiedbythispractice.)Withawell-disciplinedarmyof30,000,theBalinesedefeatedtheirDutchinvadersin1848,againin1849andoncemore,forgoodmeasure,in1850.TheycollapsedunderDutchruleonlywhentherivalkingsofBalibrokeranksandbetrayedeachotherinbidsforpower,aligningwiththeenemyforthepromiseofgoodbusinessdealslater.Sotogauzethisisland’shistorytodayinadreamofparadiseisabitinsultingtoreality;it’snotlikethesepeoplehavespentthelastmillenniumjustsittingaroundsmilingandsinginghappysongs.

           Butinthe1920sand1930s,whenaneliteclassofWesterntravelersdiscoveredBali,allthisbloodinesswasignoredasthenewcomersagreedthatthiswastruly"TheIslandoftheGods,"where"everyoneisanartist"andwherehumanitylivesinanunspoiledstateofbliss.It’sbeenalingeringidea,thisdream;mostvisitorstoBali(myselfonmyfirsttripincluded)stillendorseit."IwasfuriousatGodthatIwasnotbornBalinese,"saidtheGermanphotographerGeorgeKrauseraftervisitingBaliinthe1930s.

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