Ешь, молись, люби

Chapter 36

           

           ButSyracuse,thenextday,isevenbetter.Thebuscoughsmeuponastreetcornerhereinthecoldrain,lateintheday.Ilovethistownimmediately.TherearethreethousandyearsofhistoryundermyfeetinSyracuse.It’saplaceofsuchancientcivilizationthatitmakesRomelooklikeDallas.MythsaysthatDaedalusflewherefromCreteandthatHerculesonceslepthere.SyracusewasaGreekcolonythatThucydidescalled"acitynotintheleastinferiortoAthensitself."SyracuseisthelinkbetweenancientGreeceandancientRome.Manygreatplaywrightsandscientistsofantiquitylivedhere.Platothoughtitwouldbetheideallocationforautopianexperimentwhereperhaps"bysomedivinefate"rulersmightbecomephilosophers,andphilosophersmightbecomerulers.HistorianssaythatrhetoricwasinventedinSyracuse,andalso(andthisisjustaminorthing)plot.

           IwalkthroughthemarketsofthiscrumblytownandmyhearttumbleswithaloveIcan’tanswerorexplainasIwatchanoldguyinablackwoolhatgutafishforacustomer(hehasstuckhiscigaretteinhislipsforsafekeepingthewayaseamstresskeepsherpinsinhermouthasshesews;hisknifeworkswithdevotionalperfectiononthefillets).

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