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Chapter 16

           Therewasagooddealofferrying,asyouhear;theseainallthispartrunningdeepintothemountainsandwindingabouttheirroots.Itmakesthecountrystrongtoholdanddifficulttotravel,butfullofprodigiouswildanddreadfulprospects.

           IhadsomeotheradvicefromNeil:tospeakwithnoonebytheway,toavoidWhigs,Campbells,andthe“red-soldiers;”toleavetheroadandlieinabushifIsawanyofthelattercoming,“foritwasneverchancytomeetinwiththem;”andinbrief,toconductmyselflikearobberoraJacobiteagent,asperhapsNeilthoughtme.

           TheinnatKinlochalinewasthemostbeggarlyvileplacethateverpigswerestyedin,fullofsmoke,vermin,andsilentHighlanders.Iwasnotonlydiscontentedwithmylodging,butwithmyselfformymismanagementofNeil,andthoughtIcouldhardlybeworseoff.Butverywrongly,asIwassoontosee;forIhadnotbeenhalfanhourattheinn(standinginthedoormostofthetime,toeasemyeyesfromthepeatsmoke)whenathunderstormcamecloseby,thespringsbrokeinalittlehillonwhichtheinnstood,andoneendofthehousebecamearunningwater.PlacesofpublicentertainmentwerebadenoughalloverScotlandinthosedays;yetitwasawondertomyself,whenIhadtogofromthefiresidetothebedinwhichIslept,wadingovertheshoes.

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